Thank you for purchasing White Oak Audio Design’s TM-1001
Upgrade LED Light Board. White Oak Audio
Design products are meticulously engineered and tested to ensure a direct drop
in fit with your tuner.
The assembled and installed light board assembly will
convert your TM-1001 tuner meter illumination to long life LEDs replacing the
incandescent bulbs that burn out frequently and for which replacements are hard
to find. In addition to longer life, the
overall power consumption will be reduced as well as heat generated inside the
enclosure. Your tuner will take on that
nice blue look that Marantz was famous for.
Figure 1 below shows how your finished project will look.

Figure 1 Finished
TM-1001 tuner project
Assembling the light board printed circuit assembly.
Have a printed copy of these instructions with you prior
to performing this assembly procedure.
Skills required:
While assembly of this circuit board is not a difficult
procedure, the assembler should be familiar and comfortable with working on electronic
equipment and using a soldering station and associated tools. Ensure good control of soldering iron
temperature, not exceeding 600 degrees F, so the LED Light Board is not ruined
by excessive heat. If you are not
familiar with working on electronic equipment or do not possess the proper
equipment, it is recommended that you have this assembly performed by a service
technician that can perform the LED Light Board assembly and installation for
you.
Tools required:
- Temperature controlled soldering station or iron –
set to 600 degrees F
- 63/37 (preferred) or 60/40 rosin core solder - .031 diameter or smaller
- Good quality Needle nose pliers
- Good quality Diagonal wire cutters
- Axial lead former or bender

Figure 2: Tools
Required
Optional Tools:
- A panavise with board holder is handy for assembling
this project but is not required.

Figure 3: Optional
Tools
Table
1
TM-1001 LED Board Parts List
Item
|
Qty
|
Mouser
Electronics Part Number
|
Description
|
Ref.
|
Mouser
Price Ea.
|
Ext.
Price
|
1
|
2
|
140-XRL16V1500
|
Capacitor, Electrolytic 1500 uF, 20%, 16V, Xicon
|
C1-2
|
$0.37
|
$0.74
|
2
|
6
|
604-WP7113PBC/H
|
LED, X-Brite, Blue, Water Clear, T1-3/4, Kingbright
|
D1-6
|
$1.97
|
$11.82
|
3
|
6
|
271-330-RC
|
Resistor, 330 ohm, 1%, 1/4W, Metal Film, Xicon
|
R1-6
|
$0.09
|
$0.54
|
4
|
1
|
583-RS101
|
Bridge Rectifier, 1A, 50V, Rectron
|
B1
|
$0.43
|
$0.43
|
|
|
|
Mouser Total
|
|
|
$13.53
|
5
|
1
|
WOAD LB PCB
|
Blank PCB, White Oak Audio Design
TM-1001 Light Board
|
|
|
|
Order the parts above for the board assembly from Mouser
Electronics. Pricing and/or part numbers
of items above may have changed since the last revision of this document
Assemble the
silkscreen side of the board first (the silkscreen side of the board is the side
shown in Figure 4): 
Figure 4 Blank Light
PCB
- Bend
the 6 LEDs to the proper shape as shown in Figure 5. Use the PC board thickness as a guide
for where to bend the LED leads.
The board is 1/16” thick. Using
it, you will create a 90 degree bend in the lead wires 1/16” from the clear
plastic base of the LED.
IMPORTANT: LEDs are
polarized. Each LED has a small
flat adjacent one of the 2 leads.
This signifies the cathode or negative side of the LED. The cathode lead length is also the
shorter of the 2 leads coming out of the LED. Bend 3 LEDs in one direction and the
remaining 3 in the opposite direction to match the imprints on the blank
PCB. The board silkscreen is
printed so that it shows this flat.
Make sure you install the LEDs with the correct polarity or the
light board will not work and you may damage the LEDs or your tuner. Also ensure that you install the LEDs so
they point in the proper direction.
The board is asymmetrical with respect to the mounting holes for
the board. Look carefully at Figure
2 for proper orientation. All 6
LEDs should point away from the B1 (bridge rectifier) reference
nomenclature on the silkscreen.
- Carefully
solder each LED to the board as shown in the Figure 5. Space the plastic body of each LED
approximately 1/16” off the face of the board. This will position the LEDs properly to
shine into the top of each meter.
Check the polarity of each LED before you solder it into place,
aligning the flat on the LED plastic body with the imprint on the PC board
silkscreen. After soldering, clip
the excess lead length leaving about 1/16” protruding from the PC board
surface.
- After
you have soldered all 6 of the LEDs in, bend the leads of each of the six
330 ohm resistors on 0.4 inch (10mm) centers as shown in the photo. Carefully install each resistor into the
locations marked R1 through R6 as shown in the photo, matching the imprint
on the PC board silkscreen.
Resistors are not polarized so it does not matter which way you
orient them. Carefully solder each
resistor to the board. After
soldering, clip the excess lead length leaving about 1/16” protruding from
the PC board surface. This side of
the board should look like Figure 5 when this step is complete.

Figure 5 Silkscreen
side assembly
- Refer
to Figure 6 for the next steps.
Flip the board over to the non silkscreened side as shown in the
figure. The next 3 components will
be installed from the backside of the board.
- Install
bridge rectifier B1 into the 4 holes in the center of the board, observing
the polarity of the bridge rectifier and the silkscreen legend. Make sure you install the bridge
rectifier with the correct polarity or the light board will not work and
you may damage the LED board components or your tuner. Wait to complete the next step before
soldering.
- Install
filter capacitors C1 and C2 into the two hole patterns to the right and
left of the bridge rectifier observing the polarity of the capacitors and
the silkscreen legend. Make sure
you install these capacitors with the correct polarity or the light board
will not work and you may damage the LED board components or your tuner.
- Carefully
flip the light board assembly over and solder the leads of the bridge
rectifier and capacitors. After
soldering, clip the excess lead length leaving about 1/16” protruding from
the PC board surface.
- Inspect
the finished board for solder shorts or splashes and for proper component
orientation and polarity. Touch up
as necessary.
- The
board is now ready for assembly into your tuner.

Figure 6 Bottom side
assembly
Installing the light board assembly into the tuner.
Have a printed copy of these instructions with you prior
to performing this installation procedure.
Skill required:
While installation is not a difficult procedure, the
installer should be familiar and comfortable with working on electronic
equipment and using a soldering station and associated tools. Ensure good control of soldering iron
temperature, not exceeding 600 degrees F, so the LED Light Board is not ruined
by excessive heat. If you are not
familiar with working on electronic equipment or do not possess the proper
equipment, it is recommended that you take your tuner to a service technician
that can perform the LED Light Board for you.
Tools required:
- Temperature
controlled soldering station or iron – set to 600 degrees F
- 63/37 (preferred)
or 60/40 rosin core solder - .031
diameter or smaller
- Needle
nose pliers
- Diagonal
wire cutters
- Wire
stripper – 26 gauge
- #2
Philips screwdriver
Step by step installation procedure:
- Disconnect
power and all connections from the TM-1001 tuner.
- Move
the tuner to a suitable work area.
- Using
the Philips screwdriver carefully remove the 4 side cover screws and
plastic bushings (2 on each side of the case) holding the wooden case to
the tuner and the one screw in the rear, upper center of the back panel.
- Carefully
remove the wooden case and put it out of the work area so that damage to
the case will not occur.
- Locate
the original incandescent light board located on the left side of the
tuner (while looking at the front face) directly above the 2 meters.
- Locate
the 2 wires (one black and one blue wire) that are wire wrapped to 2 wire
wrap pins located in the center and protruding from the original light
board. Either carefully unwrap
these wires or use diagonal wire cutters to cut these wires right at the
point that these wires begin to wrap around the posts. Polarity does not matter so you don’t
have to mark these wires.
- There
are 2 small, black plastic rivets that hold the original light board to
the metal brackets that are part of the tuner chassis. Carefully, using your fingernails,
remove these rivets by pulling the center plastic plunger on each rivet
out towards the rear of the tuner.
Save these rivets as they will hold the new LED light board in
place later on. Carefully remove
the original light board and put it to the side.
- Using
your diagonal cutters, cut the 2 wires to provide a clean end at a point
approximately 1/16” of an inch where the wire insulation ends. Using your wire strippers, carefully
strip about ¼” (6 mm) of the wire insulation off each wire.
- Using
your soldering station, carefully insert and solder each wire into the
pads provided on the LED Light Board with the wires entering the holes
from the side of the board where the LED’s are mounted. Polarity does not really matter since
this is an AC signal, however the board silkscreen denotes the Blue and
Black insulation color references so you should follow this for
consistency. Carefully clip any
excess wire length, ensuring that you do not drop any of the clippings
into the tuner circuitry.
- Carefully
align the holes in the new LED Light board with the metal bracket holes in
the chassis with the LED’s facing down toward the top of each meter and
push one plastic rivet through the LED board and into the bracket. Once both rivets are installed, push the
center plunger of each rivet in to secure the LED Light Board. Your light board, once installed, will
look like the illustration in Figure 7 below. Make any minor adjustments to the LED
orientation necessary to ensure that they point down correctly into the
top of the meter lenses.

Figure 7 Installed
Light Board Assembly
- Install the wood cover using the original hardware in
the reverse order of step 3 and 4.
Do not over-tighten the cover screws or you may strip the
self-tapping screws.

Figure 8
- Enjoy
your tuner’s new long-life light board.
Tell your fellow vintage audio enthusiasts about White Oak Audio
Design and our products.
Revision Table
Revision
|
Revision
Notes
|
Revision
Date
|
Revised
By
|
A
|
Original Release
|
6/5/2007
|
JPK
|
B
|
Minor edits
|
7/15/2007
|
JPK
|
C
|
Added photographic figures
|
9/16/2007
|
JPK
|
D
|
Corrected part number for Bridge Rectifier from 583-R5101
to 583-RS101
|
4/23/2008
|
JPK
|
E
|
Corrected blue and black wire
callout on page 5, instruction step #6.
Added Tools Required and Optional Tools illustrations. Correct lead spacing on resistors to 0.4”. Added Revision Table.
|
5/4/2008
|
JPK
|